Moving from a standard "Shunt" regulator to a MOSFET regulator
従来型の「シャント式」レギュレータからMOSFET式レギュレータへの変更

MOSFET vs. Standard: Standard regulators dump excess energy as heat, often burning themselves out. MOSFETs run much cooler and provide more stable voltage.
MOSFET vs. 従来型（シャント式）：従来型のレギュレータは、余剰電力を熱として逃がす構造のため、熱でパンク（破損）してしまうことが多々あります。 対してMOSFET式は、発熱が大幅に抑えられるだけでなく、より安定した電圧供給が可能になります。



バッテリーはほぼほぼ新品なのに、どうにもその日一発目の始動で、セルの回りが渋い。
The battery is basically brand new, but for some reason, the first start of the day feels sluggish—the starter motor just isn't turning over smoothly.

そこまで固いオイルでもない（15W-40）し、電力起因ぽい回り方。
It’s not like the oil is super thick (15W-40), and the way it’s cranking feels like an electrical issue.

色々測ってみてると、3000rpm、5000rpmと回していったときに、15.8V
ありゃー、全然兆候なかったけど、バッテリー虐めてたのかぁ。
After measuring a few things, I saw it hitting 15.8V when revving to 3,000 and 5,000 rpm. Yikes... there weren't any warning signs, but it looks like I’ve been cooking the battery.



2000円の5Pの最廉価で済ませても良かったのではあるが・・・（Sence線は無視）
I could have just settled for the cheapest 5-pin option for 2,000 yen... (and just ignored the Sense wire).

MOSFETから選択して「翌日着」「日本製」に絞ったところ。MOSFETで最廉価に仕上げるよりも、1万近く余分にかかった（涙）
But once I narrowed it down to MOSFET types that were "Made in Japan" and available for "Next-day delivery," it ended up costing me nearly 10,000 yen more than the cheapest MOSFET build would have (cries).

MOSFETは5Pだけど、自己出力から12Vを読むそうな。
The MOSFET unit is a 5-pin, but apparently, it reads the 12V from its own output.
*Sence線 (Sense Wire): Many older regulators have a brown "sense" wire to monitor battery voltage. Modern MOSFET units often do this internally (detecting voltage at the output terminal), which simplifies the wiring.



新しいほう、コネクタのロック角がメスになってる。
On the new unit, the locking tab on the connector is female.
ロックはかからずとも、車体側に嵌るだけは嵌るものの・・・ゆるゆるなんで純正コネクタに組み換え。
While it technically fits into the vehicle-side plug even without the lock engaging... it’s way too loose, so I’m swapping the terminals into the OEM connector housing.



純正と同じ取り回しには、コード長が若干不足というより、コネクタがフレームに当たって無理なので。
Trying to follow the same routing as the original part didn't quite work. It’s not just that the cable length is slightly short; the connector actually hits the frame, making it impossible.
180度ひっくりかえして、ダストカバーに切れ込み入れてコネクタ通した。
Instead, I flipped the unit 180 degrees, cut a notch into the dust cover, and threaded the connector through that way.



レギュレータ取り付けボルト...老眼で、明暗差キツい奥まったとこがほとんど見えず大苦戦
The regulator mounting bolts... man, with my aging eyes, it was a real struggle. I could barely see anything in those deep, recessed spots where the contrast between light and shadow is so harsh.



復活。　5000rpmでも14V台前半でピタっと安定。
Back in business. Even at 5,000 rpm, the voltage stays perfectly stable in the low 14V range.
しばらく様子見して怪しいようなら、虐められてたバッテリーを再チェックかな。
I’ll keep an eye on things for a while, and if anything seems off, I’ll have to re-check the battery—it definitely took a beating from that overcharging.

転載は特に問題ないです。Everything is working fine.
ご利用ください。Please feel free to use this as a reference.
配線については
車両側6P
DC入力プラス（赤）Sense（12V参照）DC入力マイナス（黒）
AC出力（灰）×３
レギュレータ側5P
DC出力プラス（赤）　　　　　　　　DC出力マイナス（黒）
AC入力（灰）×３
As for the wiring:
Vehicle Side (6-Pin):
• DC Input Positive (Red): Battery connection.
• Sense (12V Reference): Voltage monitoring line.
• DC Input Negative (Black): Ground.
• AC Output (Gray) ×3: Stator/Alternator phases.
Regulator Side (5-Pin):
• DC Output Positive (Red)
• DC Output Negative (Black)
• AC Input (Gray) ×3

をそのままつなぐだけです。
Simply connect these directly.

車両側にあるSenseはMOSFETでは使用しません。
従来型レギュレータでは5Pでも6Pでも使えますが、6Pのほうが無難ではあります。
The Sense wire on the vehicle side is not used with this MOSFET regulator. While you can use either a 5-pin or 6-pin version of a conventional (shunt) regulator, the 6-pin is generally a safer bet for those types.

This post was translated with permission from this site.  著者の許可を得て、こちらのサイトより記事を翻訳・転載しています。
You can check out his other posts here.他の投稿はこちらからチェックできます。