by peking70 at 02-23-2022, 01:43 PM
Hi all,
Bit slow off the mark. I’ve had Sylvia for nearly two years now and she’s a work in progress, fine tuning to suit my old lady riding style! She’s the standard green with a not standard brown seat. Slowly putting her back to her more upright style after the last owner converted her to a cafe racer. Only new to riding so she’s good for a first bike. Learning every day!
Photo is what she looked like when she came to me. I’ve gone for more upright bars, blasted and repaired the leaking tank (need to put the pin striping back on), removed the multitude of fuel filters, built a new clutch cable after the old one snapped, and refitted the little travel tool kit box.
I still need to figure out how to make her a bit quieter as there is leaking at the muffler end of the header pipes, plus there’s no heat shield. Leg gets quite hot! Looks like the pipes are not stock, or so Yamaha say so I can’t find a carbon crush gasket, plus there’s no clamps to hold things in place. But I see lots with the single muffler dual header system so maybe they were for Australian imports. On the lookout for a heat shield, but for the meantime I’m wrapping the pipes and puttying up the exhaust joins.
Happy travels!
by Nate90 at 10-16-2021, 03:26 AM
Rebuilding the engine and the last thing we need to solve is the carb. We can't repair it and we can't buy replacement parts for it. So my question is what's an alternative carb to use?
by Chief_Mechanic at 09-28-2021, 05:21 PM
This post is copied from the FaceBook group with a few addendums from the comments. Original post credited to Steve M.

I have had problems ranging from rough running, petrol leaking over the garage floor and cylinders that are so full of fuel that the bike does not turn over due to "hydraulic lock" all depending on how long the bike is left for. Clearly there was a problem with fuel passing through the fuel tap (petcock), even in the off position, and then past the float valves, that also should close off the supply.

[Image: Flooded_Carbs.jpg]

First I tried a carburetor rebuild with new float needles and a good clean . Second I put a new diaphragm in the vacuum operated valve in the fuel tap (petcock). I even tried replacing the fuel pump after reading every single carburetor or fuel related comment ever made on the SRV250 forum!!! However I could not find out why the fuel issue continued.

But here is the solution. To the right hand side of the fuel tap (petcock) is an extra fuel line marked "return" which is connected to one of the carburetors. The fuel appears to go from the tank, to the fuel tap (petcock), to the vacuum operated valve, to the pump, to carburetor 1, to carburetor 2 then back to the fuel tap (petcock). Inside this return connection on the fuel tap (petcock) is a spring and a valve that while the engine is running and fuel flowing has pressure that opens the valve and allows fuel to return to the fuel tap (petcock). When the engine stops the spring closes the valve. This is similar to the vacuum operated valve on the other side of the fuel tap (petcock) in that it is designed to stop fuel leaking into the carburetors or cylinders when the engine is not running.
[Image: Petcock.jpg]
[Image: Spring_Valve.jpg]
So many forums and workshop manuals refer to the diaphragm operated valve as being the cause of all these problems but no other bike has the complicated system that the SRV250 has in that there is an additional valve on the other side of the fuel tap (petcock). I removed it and inside it was corroded and jammed in the open position allowing fuel to drain, via gravity, from the tank into one of the carburetors bypassing all other valves designed to stop fuel leaking. A good clean of the valve seat & a new tiny oil seal on the valve has now cured the problem. Perhaps this highly unusual valve that is not mention in workshop manuals, forums etc could also be a cause of other members fuel related problems that they have not been able to resolve by normal well known methods. I know this has been a long explanation of this issue but this is a very rare return valve that nobody other than SRV250 owners have and all our bikes are now old and therefore likely to have these corroded malfunctioning valves.
by Villamarin at 07-18-2021, 08:01 AM
Hello all,

The tank fuel filter on my Renaissa has been internally affected by corrosion and maybe beyond repair. I have tried repairing it with epoxy but some parts (connection to hoses and inner seats) have been compromised.

It seems that Yamaha do not manufacture the part anymore and none of the suppliers I have contacted has been able to provide one.

The part number is:

Filter Assy

Another option would be to adapt a filter assy from other model but I have no idea which would be compatible with the tank... any idea?

Thanks in advance for your help!

by Villamarin at 07-16-2021, 07:58 AM
Hello everyone!
Happy to be a member of the group and looking forward to learning and sharing lots of information about SRV250 Renaissa!
by Chief_Mechanic at 05-25-2020, 09:15 PM
I'd like to demonstrate how to make a silencer for a short exhaust system on a motorcycle. This will not just reduce the volume of your pipes, but more importantly will give you the necessary back pressure to help reduce the risk of burning out your valves and what-not from running way to lean.

I'm basically just running my headers as my exhaust, so this is how I went about it.
You'll need a small diameter pipe that will fit into your exhaust.  About half the diameter and preferably made of stainless steel.  I placed the length of pipe into my header and measured where it needed to be cut.

Then I cut that and drilled holes every 3cm or so, alternating 90 degrees and offsetting by 1.5 cm. (See the pic)
Next, I drilled and tapped a hole in the header for a bolt to hold the silencer in place.
[Image: silencer_1]

Next, I wrap the silencer with steel wool. Again, stainless is best (or even heat resistant fiber glass if you can find it) then wrap that with wire to keep it in place.  On the short front header, I needed to provide more back pressure, so I also stuffed the silencer with the much larger grain stainless steel (from a kitchen sponge type thing.)  Make sure you do that before you wrap the outside, so when you run the wire through the holes, it also secures the steel wool inside the silencer.
[Image: silencer_3]
Now, carefully insert the silencer into the exhaust while rotating so the steel wool doesn't bunch up.  When you you get it in place, tighten the bolt to hold the silencer pipe and you should be good.  The picture below shows the placement of the silencer in the longer header pipe before the bolt was tightened.
[Image: silencer_2]

This method provided the bike with the back pressure needed to run smoothly and also gives me the opportunity to adjust the silencer when I feel it's necessary.

If you give it a shot, I hope it works out for you as well as it did for me.
by Chief_Mechanic at 05-05-2020, 10:26 PM
I've installed an Ace-2802-2 Digital Meter on my bike as part of its rebuild and thought I'd detail the wiring for that install.  I've seen pics of them installed on other SRV's, but could find no info online.

I've removed the original headlight, but other than that have a standard wiring harness on my 1993 4DN2.

Detail  ー  Bike ー Meter
Neutral light ー Sb ー Purple
Key Switch ー L ー Red
Ground  ー  B ー Black
L. Turn Signal ー Dg ー Orange
R. Turn Signal ー Ch ー White
Tach Signal ー Y/B ー Yellow (separate plug)
High Beam ー  Y ー Light Green

Meter Clock Power ー Brown ー run line to battery (+)

Unused Meter - Oil warning light - Grey (not available on SRV)
Unused Bike - Turn Signal (+) - Br/W
        Various Switch (+)? - Br

Yamaha Wire Color Code
Sb = Sky Blue
L = Blue
B = Black
Dg = Dark Green
Ch = Chocolate
Y/B = Yellow with black stripe
Y = Yellow
Br = Brown
Br/W = Brown with white stripe

So, that's pretty much it at this point.  Once you've removed your headlight and stock meter assembly you'll be left with two black connectors which will have the majority of those wires.  The turn signal wires need to be directly connected with the individual direction wires since the stock meter only gives you a general signal, not left or right.
[Image: Meter_Connections-scaled.jpg]
The small connector with 3 wires (B, L, Br) is basically power.  The other connector (Br/W, Y/B, Y, Sb) is for individual warning lights.  The Sb wire really looked Grey until I stripped the wiring harness back and saw some of the un-weathered bit.

The Yellow wire for high beam warning comes from the headlight connector and there is also an additional ground that you'll want to keep installed in the harness.

I'll post some pics once I get it wheeled out of the shed.

Here it is post install:
[Image: Acewell_Meter.1-scaled.jpg][Image: Acewell_Meter.2-scaled.jpg]
[Image: Acewell_Meter.3-scaled.jpg][Image: Acewell_Meter.4.png]
by BillDay at 03-09-2020, 03:39 AM
Hi everyone. I bought this 1992 SRV last fall, rode it 20 meters into my garage, and have been re-furbing it over the winter. I'm really glad to have found this forum! Look forward to learning from your projects and sharing mine.


[Image: 86634749_133619921481074_804168729518040...e=5E949385]
by Chief_Mechanic at 03-02-2020, 09:23 PM
主要諸元 / The Specs for the SRV250 4DN are as below:
※[]内はSモデル / ※[] Figures in brackets are for the 'S' models

全長-Length / 幅-Width / 高-Height
2095 / 720 / 1055mm
[2095 / 720 / 1105mm]

シート高 / Seat Height

車軸距離 / Wheelbase

車体重量 / Weight
[146kg(乾) ]

燃料消費率 / Gas Mileage
※定地走行テスト値 / Tested on flat surface

燃料容量 / Fuel Capacity

エンジン / Engine
Air Cooled 4-cycle Overhead Cam 2 Cylinder

総排気量 / Total Engine Displacement

最高出力 / Max. Metric Horsepower

最高トルク / Max. Torque

変速機 / Transmission
常時噛合式5速リターン / Constant Mesh 5 Speed Return

タイヤサイズ / Tire Size
前-Front 90/90-18(51S)
後-Rear 110/90-18(61S)

バッテリー / Battery

プラグ / Spark Plug

オイル容量 / Oil Capacity
全容量-Full Capacity 2.0L
交換時-On Oil Change 1.6L
フィルター交換時-When Changing Filter 1.8L

スプロケ - Sprockets
前-Front 15|後-Rear 45

サイズ-SIze 520|リンク-Links 106

車体価格 Base Price

449,000円(税別)(Without Taxes)
by kskippi at 10-21-2019, 12:59 PM
Hey everyone - 

I've just got my first bike, a[attachment=163] 1994 SRV250 - she's a beauty!

Ok question number 1:
I noticed the dipstick on the oil cap is missing.. can this be replaced with a standard 2-stroke engine cap or something like that? Can't find anything online and it didn't come with a service (or any other kind of) manual..

Also what type of engine oil do we put in these bikes?
SAE 20W-40? I live in a place that gets really cold in winter and really hot in summer..

Question number 2:
I bought the bike with the choke disconnected and removed Sad
Can't find any aftermarket choke mechanisms online for this particular bike.. Is there an alternative choke that could be used for the SRV250? Like maybe one from a Virago or something??

Any advice appreciated, ta!
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